REVIEW

2018-03-30 - 2018-04-02
ADDRESS:Shanghai Exhibition Center, No.1 West Hall 1F, No.1000, Middle Yan'an Road, Jing'an District, Shanghai 上海市静安区延安中路1000号上海展览中心西一馆


2018年3月30日至4月2日,时堂Showroom Shanghai (以下简称“时堂”)2018秋冬系列服装服饰展,在上海展览中心西一馆举办。 

历经4年的沉淀,时堂已聚集起来自全国各地,稳定的3000多名专业观众。时堂不仅仅是国内独立设计师与设计品牌showroom的开拓者,也以其精准的高端定位,成为业内领先的精品展会。此次展会,主办方从近300个申请展位的品牌中,筛选出98个,其中多为专注于产品,且具成长潜力的设计品牌。其中,首次参加时堂的新品牌,占总量30%,能持续给市场带来新鲜感。海外品牌的比例小幅上涨,达36%。此外,根据市场调研的结果,本届时堂首次开辟男装专区,对占比15%的男装品牌进行集中展示,以适应市场对男装品牌需求的上升趋势。

时堂作为一个开放的平台,并不仅仅满足于一年两次,在上海时装周期间举办的展会。时堂提出了“向外走、向上走、向源头走”这3个全新的方向,并为之安排了更为丰富的活动。

顾名思义,“向外走”是带国内品牌走向国际市场。本季时堂,小试牛刀为BAN XIAOXUE品牌在巴黎时装周期间,开设品牌独立showroom,接待全球买手。

“向上走”则指的是时堂跳脱开单一的品牌与买手客户的桥梁功能,深入时尚文化的核心。因此,时堂与当代艺术地标——上海当代艺术博物馆(MoCA),联合开创了 “Fashion in Museum”这一活动平台。打头阵的是3月22日至4月9日,在MoCA举办的《情迷蕾丝》(The Lace Review)时尚工艺展。此展梳理了法国北部上塞纳地区14间顶尖蕾丝工坊,其中不乏为奢侈品大牌与皇室御用的蕾丝工坊。精湛的蕾丝制作技艺,以艺术化的表现方式,呈现给专业观众,相信普通时尚爱好者也能近距离地感受到蕾丝工艺之美。3月29日,在MoCA,纽约FIT博物馆馆长兼策展人、时装学专家Valerie Steele,京都服饰文化服装研究院院长、策展人深井晃子,以及V&A博物馆资深策展人Sonnet Stanfill,将汇聚一堂,共同探讨时尚策展、从博物馆空间到商业空间的呈现,以及中国品牌如何进入国际知名博物馆收藏的途径等议题。3月31日的另两场论坛,将围绕“如何策划一场时装展”,以及“中法传统工艺的保护”这两个主题来展开讨论。到场嘉宾将包括丹佛艺术博物馆策展人,Dior设计艺术大展联合策展人Florence Muller,以及开云集团可持续发展事业部主席等各界大咖。丰富多彩的“Fashion in Museum”系列活动,通过艺术、社会、传统、可持续发展等人文视角,站在制高点,关照整个产业。

“向源头走”的计划起始于,时堂对已有22年历史的“中华杯”国际服装设计大赛的支持。今年,全新启程的“中华杯·太酷大学生毕业季服装设计大赛”,共计收到1000余份报名参赛设计方案。近20位专业评委,从中筛选出了30位优胜者。这些时装设计的未来中坚力量,将在时堂举办期间,带着制作完成的时装产品,与大咖评委面对面,从中进一步甄选出大奖得主。同时,大赛也希望通过与时堂的合作,让优秀的学生设计师,感受到商业的氛围,能更好地将商业与艺术设计完美地结合在一起。此外,时堂也将不断和专业的院校,以及培训机构展开深入合作,全方位地助力未来服装产业的中坚力量。


In the West-1 Hall of Shanghai Exhibition Center, Showroom Shanghai is to stage its 2018 Autumn & Winter Collection Show from March 30 to April 2, 2018.

After 4 years of preparing itself, Showroom has attracted a stable professional audience of over 3,000 from all around China. Not only is Showroom a trailblazer of showroom for independent Chinese designers and brands, but it has emerged as a leading premium exhibition in the industry thanks to its high-end positioning. Handpicked by the sponsor from close to 300 applicant brands, the 98 exhibitors are mostly design brands that are committed to products and with promising growth potential. Among them, first-time participating brands account for 30%, which are poised to imbue vitality into the market. Overseas brands contribute 36% to the total number with a slight growth. This year, based on a market survey, Showroom Shanghai creates for the first time a special exhibition zone for men’s wear, which groups and showcases men’s wear brands that represent 15% of all the participating brands, in response to growing market demand.

Showroom Shanghai, as an open platform, aspires to more than the exhibitions held twice a year during Shanghai Fashion Week. Epitomizing its vision in “Going out, going up, and going to the source”, it has organized a number of relevant events.

“Going out”, as the name implies, is to bring domestic brands onto the international market. In this season, Showroom Shanghai provided BAN XIAOXUE with its own brand showroom during Paris Fashion Week as a debuting brand, to welcome buyers throughout the globe.

By “going up”, Showroom Shanghai determines to do more than relying solely on its role as a bridge between brands and buyers in an attempt to venture into the spotlight of the fashion culture. To this end, Showroom Shanghai creates a platform of events called “Fashion in Museum” in coalition with a fashion landmark, Museum of Contemporary Art, Shanghai (MoCA). The first to debut is the Lace Review, a fashion artwork show staged at MoCA from March 22 to April 9, where there are 14 top lace workshops from Hauts-de-Seine in northern France to be showcased, quite a number of which are well-established names in the luxury industry and among royal families. Exquisite lace workmanship is not only to be presented to professional viewers as works of art, but also to be put in close contact with ordinary fashion lovers. Valerie Steele, curator and director of the Museum at FIT in New York, Akiko Fukai, chief curator of the Kyoto Costume Institute, and Sonnet Stanfill, renowned director of V&A Museum, will be meeting on March 29 at MoCA, to explore, among others, fashion show, presentation of museum space and commercial space, and how Chinese brands could find their way into internationally recognized museums. Two additional forums, to be held on March 31, are centered on “How to plan a fashion show” and “Preservation of Chinese and French traditional workmanship”. Attending guests include a couple of VIPs in the industry, like Florence Müller, head curator at Denver Art Museum and co-curator of current Dior exhibition in Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris, the chairman of the Sustainable Development Division of Kering Group, etc. The rich array of “Fashion in Museum” events are of great relevance for the entire industry from multiple humanistic perspectives including art, society, tradition, and sustainable development.

The program of “Going to the source” stemmed from Showroom Shanghai’s support for “China Cup” International Costume Design Competition, a contest with a history of 22 years. This year, “China Cup · TECUL College Graduation Season Costume Design Competition”, on a fresh start, received over 1,000 competing designs, from which nearly 20 professional judges picked out 30 winners. During Showroom Shanghai exhibition, these winners, the backbones for fashion design in the future, will bring with them their newly completed designs to the judges, who will be determining the winners for the grand prize. Meanwhile, it is the hope of the competition host that the cooperation with Showroom Shanghai could enable excellent student designers to personally experience the commercial atmosphere so that they may know how to make an ideal combination between commerce and design. Furthermore, Showroom Shanghai is to continue with its in-depth cooperation with fashion colleges and training institutions in an all-round support for backbone designers of the future costume industry.