时堂24春夏，我们把重点都给你划出来了

10月9日-12日，时堂 Showroom Shanghai将在上海展览中心举办2024春夏订货会。这也是我们的第10个春夏订货会。

10年前，我们从独立设计师品牌开始躬身入局，进而随着市场的发展和变化调整为“商业设计品牌”的聚合。我们一方面激励设计师向商业化的方向发展，另一方面也提供给很多拥有商业背景的品牌以升级迭代的平台。这10年，我们也见证了市场的起起落落。虽然目前零售形式依旧不容乐观，但拉长周期来看，服装企业沿着品牌化路径发展，一路向好的大趋势不会改变。

本次订货会，我们保持了原有规模。东西两馆与中央大厅合计超过1万3千平的面积。参展品牌近200个，其中新品牌占比近35%。在严峻的零售形势下，不变的是通过时堂得以窥见一个层级丰富，风格多样的国内设计师品牌群像；变化的是品牌在讲故事的能力，以及品质上的大幅提升。

本届时堂的品牌组合里，我们给大家简单归纳了以下四大趋势：

1.海外品牌大举进攻

拥有近120年历史的意大利高级时装品牌CURIEL，已在全国范围内开设了25家专卖店，以品质卓绝的小黑裙为特色，单店月最高业绩超300万，是近年来市场表现特别抢眼的海外品牌。今年，CURIEL全球重启wholesale业务。我们也很荣幸地成为CURIEL国内首发的平台。

西班牙国宝级牛仔品牌LOIS，以其独特的牛仔面料，以及极好的性价比强势进入国内，也是本次时堂必看亮点。此外，总部位于巴黎的AMF SHOWROOM 以及CHIC SHOWROOM & BOUTIQUE也携一众服装配饰品牌前来参展。日本皮革协会JLIA也将在时堂呈现近10个匠心独具的日本品牌。

2.新中式的崛起

新中式风格今年以来有爆发的趋势，不少品牌突破了传统的桎梏，用各自的设计语言来呈现国风精神。除了时堂原本最具代表性的密扇外，本次我们精选了CRANE SING、㯥CAOXI囍、汉桃花 Han Tao Hua、榮RONG等数个新中式品牌，相信会是各大品台中，实力最强的组合了。

3.简约风的当下性

在低迷的市场环境下，我们得以看到简约风扑面而来的繁荣。优雅隽永的色彩、柔软内省的质地，借以高品质的面料重新定义女性力量。在上半年度大放异彩的ACHRONIE、AMOUTUM、APARALLEL、MAO BY MAO、NIAPARKA等品牌组成了我们豪华的简约风品牌阵容，不容错过。这也反映了市场日益回归理性的重大变化。

4.独立设计师的日臻圆熟

作为时堂羊绒品牌的扛把子，CHAU·RISING洲升加大了春夏系列的比例，朝着全品类的方向日臻圆熟。而首次在时堂亮相的D.MARTINA QUEEN品牌，其设计师丁洁是冬奥会开闭幕式总导演张艺谋钦点的服装设计师。去年斩获中国国际时装周最佳男装设计师的FACEONLAB今日青年是来炸场的。创立于伦敦的男装品牌CONSISTENCE也将在本届时堂展上首推女装系列。兼具嬉皮风格和vintage精神的AnOTHER MUSE多缪也曾获上海时装周的最具商业潜质奖，积淀数季后，将在时堂走出商业化的坚实一步。

我们自身也在悄然通过布展与视觉形象的变化，一步一步地推进时堂品牌精神的再定义。

文学理论中的“众声喧哗”是对时堂选品的高度浓缩。我们致力于呈现异质的多样化，以及文化上的多元共生。每一个独特的创业品牌，都能在这里找到发声的机会。而我们本次大展的视觉形象上，就让“众声喧哗”成为显眼包。而镜像的大量使用则让每一个到访时堂的客人，都参与到我们的视觉形象中来，让每一个精彩的从业者，都进入到“众声喧哗”的创造中，都参与到消解权威的场域中来。

同时，极具后现代感的弧形镜面装置，以及一系列空间上的解构和革新也正在悄然发生，消解了上海展览中心这一历史建筑的端庄与厚重。这也彰显了时堂在重塑中国时装市场过程中的主张——我们在西方定义的时装语境里，走一条具有在地特色的独有之路。我们将通过后续的几次大展，陆续揭开时堂升级改造的面纱。

Showroom Shanghai will be hosting the 2024 S/S Fair at the Shanghai Exhibition Center from October 9th to 12th, which will also mark the 10th anniversary of the fair. 

We started as an independent designer brand 10 years ago, and later reoriented as a group of “commercial designer brands” alongside the development and changes of the market. On the one hand, we encourage designers to develop towards commercialization; on the other hand, we provide a platform for updating and upgrading of many commercialized brands. Over the past decade, we have also witnessed the ups and downs of the market. Although retail sector remains gloomy recently, the long-term upward trend for fashion industry will continue as long as they develop along the path of branding.

For this fair, we will maintain the previous size, with a central hall plus the east and west pavilions covering more than 13,000 square meters. There will be nearly 200 brands, of which new ones account for nearly 35%. Amidst the harsh environment of the retail sector, what remains unchanged is that Showroom Shanghai will offer a glimpse of domestic designer brands with rich levels and diverse styles;what will be changed is the substantial improvement in the brands’ ability to tell stories.

Here is a brief summary of the four major trends of the brand portfolio.

1. Overseas Brands Flood in

CURIEL, an Italian high-end fashion brand with a history of nearly 120 years, has opened 25 stores across China, featuring premium little black dresses. The highest monthly sales of a single store exceed 3 million yuan, which makes it a particularly eye-catching overseas brandin recent years. This year, CURIEL restarted its wholesale business globally. We are also honored to be the first platform for CURIEL in China.

Spanish denim brand LOIS, a national treasure, has entered China with its unique denim fabrics and excellent cost effectiveness and become a must-see highlight of this event. In addition, Paris-based AMF SHOWROOM and CHIC SHOWROOM & BOUTIQUE will also be present with a number of fashion and accessories brands. The Japan Leather and Leather Goods Industries Association (JLIA) will also reveal nearly 10 unique Japanese brands at the Showroom Shanghai fair.

2. New Chinese Style Emerges

The new Chinese style has become a hit this year, as many brands have gone beyond traditions and presented the spirit of the national stylein their own design languages. In addition to its most representative brand Mukzin, Showroom Shanghai has also selected several brands of new Chinese style, such as CRANE SING, CAOXI, Han Tao Hua, and RONG, representing the strongest portfolio on major platforms. 

3. Minimalism Still in Vogue 

In a sluggish market, the prosperity of minimalism is evident. Elegant and timeless colors, soft and subtle textures, and high-quality fabrics redefine female power. Brands such as ACHRONIE, AMOUTUM, APARALLEL, MAO BY MAO, and NIAPARKA that shined in the first half of the year form our luxurious lineup of minimalist brands that should not be missed. This also reflects a major change -- the market’s increasing return to rationality.

4. Independent Designers Mature

As a leading cashmere brand of Showroom Shanghai, CHAU·RISING has increased the proportion of its spring and summer collection and is pushing towards a full range. As for D.MARTINA QUEEN, a brand to debut in Showroom Shanghai, its designer Ding Jie was the costume designer appointed by Zhang Yimou who oversaw the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2022 Winter Olympics. FACEONLAB, winner of the Best Menswear Designer at China Fashion Week last year, will be present to steal the spotlight. CONSISTENCE, a menswear brand founded in London, will also debut its women’s collection. AnOTHER MUSE, which combines the hippie style with a vintage spirit, is also a winner of the Commercial Potential Award at Shanghai Fashion Week. After several seasons of accumulation, it will take a solid step towards commercialization in Showroom Shanghai.

We are also redefining the brand spirit of Showroom Shanghai step by step through changes in exhibition curation and visual image.

“Heteroglossia” can be used to capture the selections of Showroom Shanghai. We are committed to presenting heterogenic diversity and cultural symbiosis in our industry. Every unique emerging brand can find a voice here. In terms of visual image, we highlight “heteroglossia”. The extensive use of mirrors allows every guest who visits the fair to be part of our visual image, and allows every wonderful practitioner to participate in the creation of “heteroglossia” and the dissolution of authority.

Meanwhile, the curved mirror installations with a strong post-modern feel and a series of spatial deconstruction and innovation are also quietly taking place, offsetting the solemnity and heaviness of the historic Shanghai Exhibition Center. This also demonstrates our proposition in the process of reshaping the Chinese fashion market -- we are taking a unique path with local characteristics in the fashion context defined by the West. We will gradually unveil the upgrading and transformation of Showroom Shanghai in the subsequent major exhibitions.